48 Hours in Engelberg, Switzerland

Rain Jacket || Tee || Joggers || Sneakers

Sometimes the best thing that can happen to you is a change of plans. I cannot wait to share my girl’s trip to Paris from last week. First, I’ve got to chat about Switzerland! If you’ve been keeping up with me, you would know that Switzerland was not part of my itinerary. After Paris, my friend and I were supposed to hop on a quick train to Bordeaux for wine nights. We had booked an amazing room at the La Course Hotel and couldn’t have been more excited. There was just one problem. When we got to the train station, every single train to Bordeaux was completely booked for the day! We didn’t even know that was a possibility. Since it was France’s national holiday weekend, it makes perfect sense that locals would want to escape the city too.

So, we were off to Switzerland to stay with my friend’s family in a small alpine village called Engelberg. I may have only been there for 48 hours, but it’s definitely a trip I will never forget! If you are in the neighborhood on your next trip to Europe, you should consider a quick detour to rest and recharge.

How to Get There:

• By Train. This is the route that my friend and I took from Paris, but it would work from almost any major city in Europe. I seriously love the train system over there. It’s easy, relatively inexpensive, and makes seeing multiple cities or countries a breeze. For this particular trip, we took the train to Basel and transferred to another train to get to Lucerne. From there, we were picked up by our hosts, but an additional train to Engelberg is also an option.
• By Plane. If you want to make Switzerland your first destination, there’s a route for you too. Flying into the Zurich airport would be the way to go. Once you land in the banking capital, you can take a train directly to Lucerne and make the transfer to Engelberg.
• By Car. Since US driver’s licenses are valid in Switzerland, this is also an option, but the last one I would take. Since the train system is so reliable, and the roads around Switzerland and Engelberg are extremely winding, we can leave this choice to the most confident of drivers.

Where to Stay:

• Hotel Terrace. Looking like it came straight from a Wes Anderson movie, this hotel makes quite an impression. Although the rooms are simple, they have all of the rustic charms that you would expect from the Swiss Alps.
• H+ Hotel. Located right in the heart of the village center, this hotel includes all the amenities you could ask for. After a day of hiking or skiing, enjoy the onsite spa or dine at the Swiss-inspired restaurant to unwind.
• Spannort Inn. One part boutique hotel and one part hostel, this inn is a great choice for travelers on a budget. Whether you opt for bunk beds or a private room, you will feel like you’re staying at a very exclusive modern hotel.

Where to Eat and Drink:

• Restaurant Ende Der Welt. Translating to ‘end of the world’, it will only take you a short car ride to get you to this traditional Swiss restaurant. Not much has changed since it first opened in 1900, but the food is still out of this world! A dish you cannot miss is the Aeplermagronen. Essentially, it’s a bowl of noodles and Swiss cheese, for two, served with sautéed onions, apple sauce, and a salad. It’s extremely filling and is the ultimate example of comfort food.
• Restaurant Alpenrosli. A 30 minute trek, up a hill and into another state, to this remote alpine restaurant seems like the ultimate Swiss experience. Once again, my food was incredible and raises the question, “can the Swiss make a bad meal?” The answer is no! For a lighter fare, I ordered a Gemischter Salad, but still had the room to share a platter of Rösti. Similar to potato cakes, it is sometimes considered to be the national dish of Switzerland.
• Roastery Engelberg. I simply did not expect to find such good cold brew coffee right in the middle of the Swiss Alps. Tasting like a cup of snickerdoodle cookies, this coffee was so delicious I just had to bring home a bag of beans to share with David.
• The Tea Room. From what I gathered, this is an extremely popular spot with the locals and was also my last meal in Switzerland. They have a huge selection of local pastries and each looked more delicious than the last. No matter what you pick, washing it down with a cup of Roastery Engelberg coffee is a perfect way to start your day.

What To Do:

• Take a hike. Would you expect anything else when you’re in the middle of the Swiss alps? There seems to be an almost endless number of options and paths to trek, but during my short stay, we settled on Brunni. Start by taking the gondola right next to the village center, and an additional ski lift, to get to the top of the mountain. Near the top, you will find Barfusswanderweg. Jokingly called a “pedicure” you take a quick stroll around a small pond through water, rocks, mud, and mulch. Ending with a quick dip in the hot tub, you feel strangely relaxed and ready to hike down the mountain.
• In the winter, go skiing. If you find yourself in Switzerland during the winter months, skiing will be your best bet. Since it is considered the largest ski resort in Central Switzerland, there are plenty of slopes no matter what you’re comfort or skill level.
• Visit the monastery. Switzerland and cheese are as synonymous as peanut butter and jelly. When you visit the local monastery, and the monks who founded the town in 1122, you may find them hard at work making Swiss cheese and other dairy products. Don’t forget to bring some for a snack on your day of hiking or as a tasty souvenir, along with your Swiss chocolate.

What to Know:

• Currency. Although the Euro is used throughout almost all of Europe, Switzerland uses its own currency called the Swiss franc. Extremely close to being equal to the US dollar, some businesses may still accept Euros, especially in towns near the border.
• Language. There are four official languages for Switzerland: French, German, Italian, and Romansh. Each canton (similar to a state) has its designated language, but most citizens speak at least two of them, plus English.

The entire time I was there, I had a huge smile on my face and couldn’t believe I was in such a remote and beautiful destination. My friend, slash travel buddy, has been raving about Switzerland for almost as long as I’ve known her, but never thought I would make it there myself. Now that I have, I can confidently say that she wasn’t overselling it. Switzerland, you are simply gorgeous and I can’t wait to return soon, hopefully with David in tow.
Love from NYC,
Katie

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